Gatekeeping and the Use of Contested Practices in Creative Industries: The Case of Fur in Fashion

References

• Adams E (2017) PETA Has a Plan (Racked, New York).Google Scholar
• AFP (2009) Pink won’t befriend designers who use fur. The Times of India, https://tinyurl.com/yauo9mt4.Google Scholar
• Allison PD (1999) Multiple Regression: A Primer (Pine Forge Press, Thousand Oaks, CA).Google Scholar
• Alvarez JL, Mazza C, Pedersen JS, Svejenova S (2005) Shielding idiosyncrasy from isomorphic pressures: Toward optimal distinctiveness in European filmmaking. Organization 12(6):863–888.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Amenta E, Polletta F (2019) The cultural impacts of social movements. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 45(1):279–299.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Ansari SM, Fiss PC, Zajac EJ (2010) Made to fit: How practices vary as they diffuse. Acad. Management Rev. 35(1):67–92.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Askin N, Mauskapf M (2017) What makes popular culture popular? Product features and optimal differentiation in music. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 82(5):910–944.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Aspers P, Godart FC (2013) Sociology of fashion: Order and change. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 39:171–192.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Atkins-Sayre W (2010) Articulating identity: People for the ethical treatment of animals and the animal/human divide. Western J. Comm. 74(3):309–328.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Bartley T, Child C (2014) Shaming the corporation: The social production of targets and the anti-sweatshop movement. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 79(4):653–679.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Becker HS (1974) Art as collective action. Am. Sociol. Rev. 39(6):767–776.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Becker HS (1982) Art Worlds (University of California Press, Berkeley, CA).Google Scholar
• Blanks T (2015) Couture Fendi. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/4s59ryek.Google Scholar
• Blott U (2017) Italian fashion legend Carla Fendi dies at 79 after transforming her family’s modest leather business into an international fashion powerhouse Daily Mail, https://tinyurl.com/yb4vwzxw.Google Scholar
• Bonacich P, Lloyd P (2001) Eigenvector-like measures of centrality for asymmetric relations. Soc. Networks 23:191–201.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Bourdieu P (1993) The Field of Cultural Production: Essays on Art and Literature (Polity, Cambridge, UK).Google Scholar
• Bowers A, Prato M (2019) The role of third-party rankings in status dynamics: How does the stability of rankings induce status changes? Organ. Sci. 30(6):1146–1164.Link, Google Scholar
• Breiger RL (2005) Culture and classification in markets: An introduction. Poetics 33:157–162.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Briscoe F, Gupta A (2016) Social activism in and around organizations. Acad. Management Ann. 10(1):671–727.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Briscoe F, Safford S (2008) The Nixon-in-China effect: Activism, imitation, and the institutionalization of contentious practices. Admin. Sci. Quart. 53(3):460–491.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Briscoe F, Gupta A, Anner MS (2015) Social activism and practice diffusion. Admin. Sci. Quart. 60(2):300–332.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Cappetta R, Cillo P, Ponti A (2006) Convergent designs in fine fashion: An evolutionary model for stylistic innovation. Res. Policy 35(9):1273–1290.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Cardini T (2018) Ready-to-wear Max Mara Atelier. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/2p8e2w5c.Google Scholar
• Cattani G, Ferriani S, Allison PD (2014) Insiders, outsiders, and the struggle for consecration in cultural fields: A core-periphery perspective. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 79(2):258–281.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Caves RE (2000) Creative Industries: Contracts Between Art and Commerce (Harvard University Press, Cambridge, MA).Google Scholar
• Childress C (2017) Under the Cover: The Creation, Production, and Reception of a Novel (Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ).Google Scholar
• Cillo P, Verona G (2008) Search styles in style searching: Exploring innovation strategies in fashion firms. Long Range Planning 41(6):650–671.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Cleves MA, Gould WW, Gutierrez RG, Marchenko YV (2016) An Introduction to Survival Analysis Using Stata, revised 3rd ed. (Stata Press, College Station, TX).Google Scholar
• Codinha A (2016a) Ready-to-Wear A.W.A.K.E. MODE. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/ybnnbf76.Google Scholar
• Codinha A (2016b) Ready-to-Wear Gabriele Colangelo. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/ydgu299h.Google Scholar
• Coslor E, Crawford B, Leyshon A (2020) Collectors, investors and speculators: Gatekeeper use of audience categories in the art market. Organ. Stud. 41(7):945–967.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Crane D (1999) Diffusion models and fashion: A reassessment. Ann. Amer. Acad. Political Soc. Sci. 566(1):13–24.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Cullen JB, Parboteeah KP, Hoegl M (2004) Cross-national differences in managers’ willingness to justify ethically suspect behaviors: A test of institutional anomie theory. Acad. Management J. 47(3):411–421.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Curwen T (2007) TRENDS: The Wild Side Los Angeles Times, https://tinyurl.com/2p938yhe.Google Scholar
• Darby MR, Karni E (1973) Free competition and the optimal amount of fraud. J. Law Econom. 16(1):67–88.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Daskalaki M (2010) Building ‘bonds’ and ‘bridges’: Linking tie evolution and network identity in the creative industries. Organ. Stud. 31(12):1649–1666.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Davis J (2019) Vintage, faux and real: navigating fur in fashion in an age of sustainability. Harpers's Bazaar, https://tinyurl.com/y5bcz6yx.Google Scholar
• Desoucey M (2016) Contested Tastes: Foie Gras and the Politics of Food (Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Durand R, Rao H, Monin P (2007) Code and conduct in French cuisine: Impact of code changes on external evaluations. Strategic Management J. 28(5):455–472.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Elliott AF (2014) ‘Animal cruelty is beyond words’: PETA’s latest campaign uses morbid EMOJI’s to reach a ‘vain’ younger audience Daily Mail, https://tinyurl.com/y7haafkh.Google Scholar
• Espeland WN, Sauder M (2007) Rankings and reactivity: How public measures recreate social worlds. Amer. J. Sociol. 113(1):1–40.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Fernandez R, Gould R (1994) The dilemma of state power: Brokerage and influence in the national health policy domain. Amer. J. Sociol. 99:1455–1491.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Fine GA (1996) Justifying work: Occupational rhetorics as resources in restaurant kitchens. Admin. Sci. Quart. 41(1):90–115.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Fine GA (2018) Talking Art: The Culture of Practice and the Practice of Culture in MFA Education (University of Chicago Press, Chicago).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Fiss PC, Kennedy MT, Davis GF (2012) How golden parachutes unfolded: Diffusion and variation of a controversial practice. Organ. Sci. 23(4):1077–1099.Link, Google Scholar
• Foster PC, Ocejo RE (2015) Brokerage, mediation, and social networks in the creative industries. Jones C, Lorenzen M, Sapsed J, eds. The Oxford Handbook of Creative Industries (Oxford University Press, Oxford, UK), 405–420.Google Scholar
• Foster P, Borgatti SP, Jones C (2011) Gatekeeper search and selection strategies: Relational and network governance in a cultural market. Poetics 39(4):247–265.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Freeman H (2006) Fighting the return of fur. The Guardian, https://tinyurl.com/4f765ct6.Google Scholar
• Glynn MA (2002) Chord and discord: Organizational crisis, institutional shifts, and the musical canon of the symphony. Poetics 30(1-2):63–85.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Glynn MA, Lounsbury M (2005) From the critics’ corner: Logic blending, discursive change and authenticity in a cultural production system. J. Management Stud. 42:1031–1055.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Godart FC, Galunic C (2019) Explaining the popularity of cultural elements: Networks, culture, and the structural embeddedness of high fashion trends. Organ. Sci. 30(1):151–168.Link, Google Scholar
• Godart FC, Shipilov AV, Claes K (2014) Making the most of the revolving door: The impact of outward personnel mobility networks on organizational creativity. Organ. Sci. 25(2):377–400.Link, Google Scholar
• Gould J, Fernandez J (1989) Structures of mediation: A formal approach to brokerage in transaction networks. Sociol. Methodology 19:89–126.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Graffin SD, Wade JB, Porac JF, McNamee RC (2008) The impact of CEO status diffusion on the economic outcomes of other senior managers. Organ. Sci. 19(3):457–474.Link, Google Scholar
• Granovetter M (1978) Threshold models of collective behavior. Amer. J. Sociol. 83(6):1420–1443.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Gusfield JR, Michalowicz J (1984) Secular symbolism: Studies of ritual, ceremony, and the symbolic order in modern life. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 10:417–435.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Hahl O, Zuckerman EW (2014) The denigration of heroes? How the status attainment process shapes attributions of considerateness and authenticity. Amer. J. Sociol. 120(2):504–554.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Hargrove EC (1992) The Animal Rights/Environmental Ethics Debate: The Environmental Perspective (SUNY Press Albany, New York).Google Scholar
• Haunschild PR, Miner AS (1997) Modes of interorganizational imitation: The effects of outcome salience and uncertainty. Admin. Sci. Quart. 42(3):472–500.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Hiatt SR, Carlos WC (2019) From farms to fuel tanks: Stakeholder framing contests and entrepreneurship in the emergent US biodiesel market. Strategic Management J. 40(6):865–893.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Hiatt SR, Sine WD, Tolbert PS (2009) From Pabst to Pepsi: The deinstitutionalization of social practices and the creation of entrepreneurial opportunities. Admin. Sci. Quart. 54(4):635–667.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Hill DD (2004) As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising (Texas Tech University Press, Lubbock, TX).Google Scholar
• Hirsch PM (1972) Processing fads and fashions: An organization set analysis of culture industry systems. Amer. J. Sociol. 77(4):639–659.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Holgate M (2018) Ready-to-wear shrimps. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/2p86ejxa.Google Scholar
• Hsu G, Roberts PW, Swaminathan A (2012) Evaluative schemas and the mediating role of critics. Organ. Sci. 23(1):83–97.Link, Google Scholar
• Jay M (1992) The aesthetic alibi. Salmagundi 93:13–25.Google Scholar
• Jones C, Massa FG (2013) From novel practice to consecrated exemplar: Unity Temple as a case of institutional evangelizing. Organ. Stud. 34(8):1099–1136.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Jones C, Maoret M, Massa FG, Svejenova S (2012) Rebels with a cause: Formation, contestation, and expansion of the de novo category “modern architecture,” 1870–1975. Organ. Sci. 23(6):1523–1545.Link, Google Scholar
• Jones C, Svejenova S, Pedersen JS, Townley B (2016) Misfits, mavericks and mainstreams: Drivers of innovation in the creative industries. Organ. Stud. 37(6):751–768.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Katzenstein MF (1998) Faithful and Fearless: Moving Feminist Protest Inside the Church and Military (Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ).Google Scholar
• Kaufman J (2004) Endogenous explanation in the sociology of culture. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 30(1):335–357.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Kawamura Y (2018) Fashion-ology: An Introduction to Fashion Studies, 2nd ed. (Berg, New York).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Kennedy MT (2005) Behind the one-way mirror: Refraction in the construction of product market categories. Poetics 33(3-4):201–226.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Khaire M (2017) Culture and Commerce: The Value of Entrepreneurship in Creative Industries (Stanford University Press, Stanford, CA).Google Scholar
• Kim H, Kim BK (2022) To be in Vogue: How mere proximity to high-status neighbors affects aspirational pricing in the U.S. fashion industry. Strategic Management J, https://doi.org/10.1002/smj.3363.Crossref, Google Scholar
• King BG, Pearce NA (2010) The contentiousness of markets: Politics, social movements, and institutional change in markets. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 36(1):249–267.Crossref, Google Scholar
• King BG, Soule SA (2007) Social movements as extra-institutional entrepreneurs: The effect of protests on stock price returns. Admin. Sci. Quart. 52(3):413–442.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Koopmans R, Olzak S (2004) Discursive opportunities and the evolution of right‐wing violence in Germany. Amer. J. Sociol. 110(1):198–230.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Kremp P-A (2010) Innovation and selection: Symphony orchestras and the construction of the musical canon in the United States (1879–1959). Soc. Forces 88(3):1051–1082.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Lampel J, Lant T, Shamsie J (2000) Balancing act: Learning from organizing practices in cultural industries. Organ. Sci. 11(3):263–269.Link, Google Scholar
• Lee BH, Hiatt SR, Lounsbury M (2017) Market mediators and the trade-offs of legitimacy-seeking behaviors in a nascent category. Organ. Sci. 28(3):447–470.Link, Google Scholar
• Leitch L (2018) Ready-to-wear Longchamp. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/y922k84j.Google Scholar
• Lieberson S (2000) A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change (Yale University Press, New Haven, CT).Google Scholar
• Lynn FB, Podolny JM, Tao L (2009) A sociological (de)construction of the relationship between status and quality. Amer. J. Sociol. 115(3):755–804.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Manlow V (2007) Designing Clothes: Culture and Organization of the Fashion Industry (Transaction Publishers, New Brunswick).Google Scholar
• McAdam D, Scott WR (2005) Organizations and movements. Davis GF, McAdam D, Scott WR, Zald MN, eds. Social Movements and Organization Theory (Cambridge University Press, New York), 4–40.Crossref, Google Scholar
• McAdam D, Tarrow S, Tilly C (2001) Dynamics of Contention (Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, UK).Crossref, Google Scholar
• McDonnell M-H, King BG (2013) Keeping up appearances: Reputational threat and impression management after social movement boycotts. Admin. Sci. Quart. 58(3):387–419.Google Scholar
• McDonnell M-H, King BG (2018) Order in the court: How firm status and reputation shape the outcomes of employment discrimination suits. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 83(1):61–87.Crossref, Google Scholar
• McDonnell M-H, Werner T (2016) Blacklisted businesses: Social activists’ challenges and the disruption of corporate political activity. Admin. Sci. Quart. 61(4):584–620.Crossref, Google Scholar
• McDonnell M-H, King BG, Soule SA (2015) A dynamic process model of private politics. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 80(3):654–678.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Mears A (2011) Pricing Beauty: The Making of a Fashion Model (University of California Press, Berkeley).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Menger P-M (2014) The Economics of Creativity. Art and Achievement Under Uncertainty (Harvard University Press, Cambridge, MA).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Meyer DS, Staggenborg S (1996) Movements, countermovements, and the structure of political opportunity. Amer. J. Sociol. 101(6):1628–1660.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Mills S (2014) The rise, fall and rebirth of John Galliano. GQ, https://tinyurl.com/y6ydxnch.Google Scholar
• Mirchandani R (2007) Peta V. Prada. New York Post, https://tinyurl.com/yvd6b437.Google Scholar
• Morrill C, Zald MN, Rao H (2003) Covert political conflict in organizations: Challenges from below. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 29(1):391–415.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Mower S (2017) Ready-to-wear Fendi. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/2p9e9m94.Google Scholar
• Nelson P (1970) Information and consumer behavior. J. Polit. Econ. 78(2):311–329.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Okwodu J (2018) Ready-to-wear Dennis Basso. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/2p99bt8h.Google Scholar
• Oliver PE, Cadena-Roa J, Strawn KD (2003) Emerging trends in the study of protest and social movements. Res. Political Sociol. 12(1):213–244.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Olson DM, Waguespack DM (2020) Strategic behavior by market intermediaries. Strategic Management J. 41(13):2474–2492.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Olzak S (1989) Analysis of events in the study of collective action. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 15(1):119–141.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Peoples L (2017) One man’s trash is (apparently) Moschino’s couture. Refinery29, https://tinyurl.com/yypb7yha.Google Scholar
• Petter O (2019) Anna Wintour at 70: Why the Vogue editor plays such a vital role in the fashion industry. The Independent, https://tinyurl.com/ycxccwby.Google Scholar
• Phelan H (2017) Ready-to-wear Osklen. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/ydddzt46.Google Scholar
• Phelps N (2017) Ready-to-wear Altuzarra. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/32ke2bnn.Google Scholar
• Phelps N (2018) Ready-to-wear Stella McCartney. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/yc2duprh.Google Scholar
• Phillips DJ (2001) The promotion paradox: Organizational mortality and employee promotion chances in Silicon Valley law firms, 1946–1996. Amer. J. Sociol. 106(4):1058–1098.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Phillips DJ, Zuckerman EW (2001) Middle-status conformity: Theoretical restatement and empirical demonstration in two markets. Amer. J. Sociol. 107(2):379–429.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Phillips DJ, Turco CJ, Zuckerman EW (2013) Betrayal as market barrier: Identity-based limits to diversification among high-status corporate law firms. Amer. J. Sociol. 118(4):1023–1054.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Podolny JM (1993) A status-based model of market competition. Amer. J. Sociol. 98(4):829–872.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Price Alford H, Stegemeyer A (2014) Who’s Who in Fashion, 6th ed. (Fairchild Publications, New York).Google Scholar
• Rantisi NM (2004) The designer in the city and the city in the designer. Power D, Scott AJ, eds. Cultural Industries and the Production of Culture (Routledge, New York), 91–109.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Rao H, Monin P, Durand R (2003) Institutional change in Toque Ville: Nouvelle cuisine as an identity movement in French gastronomy. Amer. J. Sociol. 108(4):795–843.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Rao H, Monin P, Durand R (2005) Border crossing: Bricolage and the erosion of categorical boundaries in French gastronomy. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 70(6):968–991.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Rossman G, Schilke O (2014) Close, but no cigar: The bimodal rewards to prize-seeking. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 79(1):86–108.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Salganik MJ, Dodds PS, Watts DJ (2006) Experimental study of inequality and unpredictability in an artificial cultural market. Science 311(5762):854–856.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Scott WR (2003) Institutional carriers: Reviewing modes of transporting ideas over time and space and considering their consequences. Industry Corporate Change 12(4):879–894.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Seong S, Godart FC (2018) Influencing the influencers: Diversification, semantic strategies, and creativity evaluations. Acad. Management J. 61(3):966–993.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Sgourev SV, Althuizen N (2014) “Notable” or “not able”: When are acts of inconsistency rewarded? Amer. Sociol. Rev. 79(2):282–302.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Shoemaker PJ, Reese SD (2014) Mediating the Message in the 21st Century: A Media Sociology Perspective (Routledge, New York).Google Scholar
• Shrum WM (1991) Critics and publics: Cultural mediation in highbrow and popular performing arts. Amer. J. Sociol. 97(2):347–375.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Shrum WM (1996) Fringe and Fortune: The Role of Critics in High and Popular Art (Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Simonson P (2001) Social noise and segmented rhythms: News, entertainment, and celebrity in the crusade for animal rights. Comm. Rev. 4(3):399–420.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Singer M (2013) Ready-to-wear J. Mendel. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/ybnsjnae.Google Scholar
• Smith J, McCarthy JD, McPhail C, Augustyn B (2001) From protest to agenda building: Description bias in media coverage of protest events in Washington, D.C. Soc. Forces 79(4):1397–1423.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Smits R (2016) Gatekeeping and networking arrangements: Dutch distributors in the film distribution business. Poetics 58:29–42.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Socha M (2015) Karl Lagerfeld on fur, Fendi and couture. Women's Wear Daily, https://tinyurl.com/36d2f9u4.Google Scholar
• Soule SA, Swaminathan A, Tihanyi L (2014) The diffusion of foreign divestment from Burma. Strategic Management J. 35(7):1032–1052.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Sproles GB, Burns LD (1994) Changing Appearances: Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society (Fairchild Publications, New York).Google Scholar
• Steele V (1998) Paris Fashion: A Cultural History, 2nd ed. (Oxford University Press, New York).Crossref, Google Scholar
• Steele V (2003) Fashion, Italian Style (Yale University Press, New Haven, CT).Google Scholar
• Strang D, Soule SA (1998) Diffusion in organizations and social movements: From hybrid corn to poison pills. Annu. Rev. Sociol. 24:265–290.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Strege G (2014) Fur as fashion in America. Fashion Style Popular Culture 1(3):413–432.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Townley B, Beech N, McKinlay A (2009) Managing in the creative industries: Managing the motley crew. Human Relations 62(7):939–962.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Van Rees CJ (1987) How reviewers reach consensus on the value of literary works. Poetics 16(3-4):275–294.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Vasi IB, King BG (2012) Social movements, risk perceptions, and economic outcomes: The effect of primary and secondary stakeholder activism on firms’ perceived environmental risk and financial performance. Amer. Sociol. Rev. 77(4):573–596.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Veblen T (1899) The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (Dover Thrift, New York).Google Scholar
• Verner A (2017) Menswear Marni. Vogue, https://tinyurl.com/4a5ncjk3.Google Scholar
• Waguespack DM, Sorenson O (2011) The ratings game: Asymmetry in classification. Organ. Sci. 22(3):541–553.Link, Google Scholar
• Walker ET, Martin AW, McCarthy JD (2008) Confronting the state, the corporation, and the academy: The influence of institutional targets on social movement repertoires. Amer. J. Sociol. 114(1):35–76.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Wang T, Wezel FC, Forgues B (2016) Protecting market identity: When and how do organizations respond to consumers’ devaluations? Acad. Management J. 59(1):135–162.Crossref, Google Scholar
• Weber C (2006) Review: IN VOGUE: The illustrated history of the world’s most famous fashion magazine. New York Times, https://tinyurl.com/2jxtkke7.Google Scholar
• Weiss D (2014) “That’s part of what we do”: The performative power of Vogue’s Anna Wintour. J. Magazine New Media Res. 15(1):1–29.Google Scholar
• White HC, White CA (1965) Canvases and Careers. Institutional Change in the French Painting World (Wiley, New York).Google Scholar